áspédan ţéod

Home | The Peace Maker | test - main | test | Preserving Wood | Housing: Sod Igloo | Chickens: Permaculture Feed | Storing Nails | Security: Analysis of a Mugging | Tengwar | Havamal | Tribal: Tribal Dynamics - Abstract | Alaska: Subsistence Homesteading | Alaska: Agriculture Industry in Alaska | Recipes | Alaska: Major Ag Product Categories | Alaska: Seeds | Tribal: Sacred Enclosures | Model Constitution | Bog Iron | Stock and Drop | Age of Salvage Socities | Child Rearing: In Favor of Sheltering | 4 Billion | Planning for a Post-Oil Economy | Peak Oil and the Problem of Infrastructure | Food Storage | Book List | Oil Press | 100 Items That Disappear First | Cooking Heating and Lighting | Emergency Grain Mill | Outdoor Oven | Hobo Stove | Sharpening | Grain | Growing Feed | Reproductive | Childbirth | Abatis | Self-Sufficiency for Six | Homemade Cosmetics | Dutch Oven | 120/Village | Pests | Brewing | Links | Weapons: Making a Sling | Weapons: Slingshot 1 | Weapons: Slingshot 2 | Weapons: Slingshot 2 | Construction: Building Masonry Cookstoves | Heating: Emergency Wood Heat | Heating: Solar Heating Plan for Any Home | 10 Steps to Localization | Surviving In The City | Tribal: Modern Asatru/Germanic | German Shepherd ears | Alternative Lighting: Plant Oils and Waxes | Enlightened Survivalism | Quarterstaff | How Cheaply We Could Live | Life After The Crash | What To Do? | Survival Steps/Individual Level | 21 Strategies for Creating an Emergency Fund | Where to Live/Collapse Survival | Collapse on a Budget Part I | Collapse Survival on a Budget Part II | Collapse Survival on a Budget Part III | Commandments of Saving Money | Natural Remedies | Household Tips | How To Plan For An Emergency | Coming Collapse: A Community Checklist | Cap and Ball | Emergency Supplies/Kits | How To Prepare for an Emergency | Straw Bale on a Budget | Probable Timeline | Off Road | Storing Gasoline | Urban Invisibility | Pet Health/Nutrition | Zeer Pot | Rabbits | Making Charcoal
Weapons: Slingshot 1

Securing a Fork



There are three species of trees that seemingly were set apart from the rest when it comes to producing well-shaped Beanshooter forks. These are:



Mountain Laurel

Of these my preference would be the common Dogwood due to the denseness of its wood fibers... its hardness after drying... and the ease with which its bark can be stripped-off.

Step 1... Search the woods for dogwood trees. Once you've found them, walk around the tree looking for a forking limb. Take into consideration size, shape, uniformity, and freedom from knots.

Step 2... Cut the fork free from the tree ...leaving plenty of length to both prongs and handle. Using a sharp pocket-knife, strip off all the bark. If needed... even up the two sides(prongs) of the fork. (They should be about the thickness of your index finger.)

Step 3... Store the fork where it can air-dry for a period of at least two weeks.

Step 4... Use a piece of broken glass to shave the rough edges, thereby producing a smooth fork.

Step 5... Using your knife, cut the prongs to proper length (about 3 1/2" or 11cm). The handle should be about 4 1/2 to 5" or 14 to 15cm (measured from the "crotch"). Now carefully cut notches into each prong near its end ( front and back).


Preparing the Beanshooter Rubber


If you are fortunate enough to have access to red-innertube rubber that is still in good condition... use it to make your set of rubbers.

Most likely you will have to settle for present day, pure-gum rubber. This will be quite adequate as it exhibits the "snap" necessary for making a good beanshooter.

Using a quality pair of scissors, carefully cut two strips
(3/4" x 14" or 2cm x 42cm)) each.


Making the Pouch

We used to "rob" the tongue from a worn-out shoe to make the pouch for our beanshooter... but if you'd rather not do that... it's not too difficult to find scrap leather being thrown away by local businesses.

The leather should be fairly thin... yet strong (not torn easily).

Once you have secured a piece of leather... cut out a rectangle measuring 2" x 5" ( 6cm x 15cm).

Now cut a 1/4" (8mm) hole near each end. This hole should be within 1/2" (15mm) of the end. This is where you will later fasten the rubber strip.

Finally... take your scissors and round-off the corners of the rectangular pouch.

Assembling the Beanshooter

Now you're ready to pull the parts together and assemble your beanshooter.

Place one end of a rubber strip through the hole in the pouch and lap it back on itself about 3/4" (2cm). Using a #16 rubber band, make four or five tight wraps around the "lapped" section... then tie the ends securely forming a hard knot. Take a second rubber strip and do the same to the other end of the pouch.

Take the free end of one of the rubber strips... lap its end over 3/4" (2cm) and place it into the notch on the fork. Use a #32 rubber band to tie this securely to the fork. Keeping the two rubber strips aligned properly... position the second like you did the first and tie securely.

You are now ready to test your trusty new BEANSHOOTER